Yards Worth Walking Across.

Aeration

Bluegrass and other cool-season grasses grow hardest in spring and fall, so that's when aeration helps most. Aim for mid-April through May, or late August through October.

Water the lawn a day or two before so the tines can pull full cores. Leave the plugs on the lawn; they break down within a couple of weeks and return soil to the surface.

Fall aeration pairs well with overseeding thin spots, since the seed lands right in the holes and has cool nights to establish.

Fertilizing

Bluegrass does best with a few lighter feedings spread through the season rather than one big dose. A simple Front Range schedule looks like this:

• Late spring (May to early June): feed once the lawn is green and growing steadily. Fertilizing too early pushes leaf growth before the roots are ready.
• Early fall (late August to September): helps the lawn recover from summer heat and thicken up.
• Late fall (October to early November): often the most valuable feeding of the year. The grass stores those nutrients over winter and greens up faster in spring.

Go easy in the heat of July and early August. Heavy nitrogen on a heat-stressed lawn does more harm than good. If you feed in summer at all, use a light, slow-release product.

Water fertilizer in the same day, and sweep any granules off sidewalks and driveways so they don't wash into storm drains. Leaving clippings on the lawn after mowing also returns nitrogen to the soil for free.

Doing both

Aerate first, then fertilize. The open holes let water and nutrients get past the clay and straight to the roots, so you get more out of every feeding.

Rock beds suit hot, sunny spots and water-wise plants like blue fescue, lavender and agave. They don't blow away, don't need topping up every year, and pair well with drip irrigation.

Mulch holds moisture and slowly feeds the soil, which shrubs, hostas and perennials love. It's the better pick for shady beds and anything that likes richer soil. Plan on a fresh layer each spring.

Plenty of yards use both: rock along the hot south side and driveway, mulch in shady beds by the house.

Water early in the morning, before the heat and wind pick up, so more of it reaches the roots instead of evaporating.

Water deeply and less often rather than a little every day. Deep watering pushes roots down, which helps the lawn ride out hot spells.

Check your water provider's current watering rules each season, since many metro providers limit watering days and midday watering. And turn the system down in spring and fall, when the lawn needs far less.